Around the World in 80 Cocktails

1) Welcome!

Welcome to my travel blog! I will use this site to keep everybody up-to-date on my travels for the next eight months.

Please feel free to comment or leave me a note - there's a space on each blog page for you to do so.

Apologies in advance for any typo’s or other inaccuracies. If you find any, please drop me an email and I’ll correct them. Well I might ;-) Thats also my general email address while I'm away.

I'll write things as I see fit - but it really is only my view. I may use the 'web' especially wikipedia to research some 'background' and may use a line or two in my writing. For this I gratefully acknowledge their copyrite.

2) How did I get into this?...

Enough dithering Woz! I know it's time to make a start on my blog!

Haven't done this sort of thing before - so I thought I'd have a go a coupla months before I depart. There's enough to write about anyway...

The parties have already started - so is the influx of guests, family and friends. I hardly have any free days between now and 26th August when I depart Spain for my eight-month trip. I'll be covering going on for 40,000 miles visiting 17 countries, 20 flights and goodness knows how many trains, buses, boats, tuk-tuks and whatever else that'll save me a walk.

Eight months? Well it all started as a three-month volunteer assignment in Cambodia. And just sort of grew – as these things do.

Cambodia? Woz, what are you doing lad? Volunteer? Never known Woz lift a finger unless payment is assured - preferably in advance! Yeah, well - times change. Or do they?

So what made Woz up sticks from a comfortable life on Spain's Costa del Sol, to heading off with just a backpack to some of the most dangerous countries in the world - and spend a good few months of it working as a volunteer?

'Cos he's finally lost it? Nah - I reckon Woz has finally found it actually.

So where did this all start from? You know something, that's a bloody good question....

3) So where did this all start?

Possibly 20 odd years ago, when I saw the movie 'The KillingFields' for the first time?
Possibly while I was living in the USA, experiencing all their anguish over'Terrorism' - and thinking back to their secret bombing campaign in Cambodia.
These two episodes of history have made an indelible mark in my mind - but Iwould have to say the catalyst for my decision was probably Selfridges, Manchester.

Now don't get me wrong -nothing wrong with Selfridges as such - in fact hard to find fault with them really. But, Christmas shopping there at the end of 2007 was to somehow have a profound effect for me. The money that was being spent by frenzied shoppers - me included, was quite frankly obscene.
On what? Well, in my case - being totally under whelmed with any kind ofshopping, I just buy gift vouchers for everyone, typically 20 quid for eachvoucher. I have quite a few to buy each year.

And you wanna knowsomething? The value of just one or two of those vouchers is what many Cambodian families have to live on - FOR A WHOLE YEAR.

It’s a country with wonderful people who have endured some 40 years of trauma. From the secret bombing of it by the Americans, through Genocide by Pol Pot, to occupation by the Vietnamese and then a civil war. It now has a 'stable' government, a slightly improved, but still poor infrastructure and hope for the future. It is still one of the most impoverished nations on earth though.

Anyway, that’s how this all started – a three months stint of volunteer work in Cambodia.

It just sort of grew into a bigger trip – as these things do, I suppose!

How MUCH bigger, Woz?...

4) Woz Tours gets on the case...

Three months in Cambodia? No problem Woz. Just fly London to Kuala Lumpar and a quick budget flight into Cambodia. Yours for around 650 quid. Ah, yes well – if I’m spending that sort of money – and going all that way then really I should perhaps look to one or two other places?

Of course, there’s loads to see in S E Asia and Indochina in particular. Mind you, if I’m that far away – may as well have a think about Australia too?

So, back to the internet. There are loads of tickets to Oz and New Zealand with a couple of S E Asia stopovers at around the 1000 pounds mark. But I also realized that for this amount of money, it’s getting into the realms of a ‘Round The World’ (RTW) ticket.

Oh boy, oh boy. Now Woz Tours is getting interested. Most RTW tickets are mileage based – around 29,000. Do more miles and there are price penalties. Also, to stay within 29,000 the route is something like London, New York, Los Angeles, OZ, Singapore and back. I’ve seen enough of the USA not to really want to do it again.

The ‘Oneworld’ airline alliance – BA, Quantas, LAN and a few other airlines – price their RTW based on the number of continents visited. Also having LAN as part of their alliance, allows South America into the trip. They price their ticket based on the number of continents visited rather than mileage. As with most RTW’s, they’re fully flexible in terms of date changes within a 12 months period from departure.

So there it is – just buy a ‘4 continent’ ticket – Europe, S America, Australasia and Asia. Sorted. And in no time at all, three months in Cambodia becomes eight months around the world.

Ok that’s outa the way, now what about accommodation?

Well obviously Wozzer’s usual standard of hotel (Marriott or Hilton) is out of the question. I’ve set a budget of US$50 a day (£25) for accommo and food/drinks. No smartarse comments about food budget, thank you!

I’m doing the trip mainly in small hostels and Couchsurfing.

Couchsurfing Woz? What on earth is that?

I’ll tell you what it is… It’s the most amazing traveler’s website ever, in my opinion. As if my opinion is the only one that counts. As if.

Anyway – I’ll write a separate section about Couchsurfing soon. A word or two about volunteering next...

5) Volunteer Projects

I started looking at Volunteer work at the beginning of this year. Hunting around the internet yielded literally hundreds of ‘Projects’ – as they’re called.

Well I was astonished to find that there are other ‘do gooders’ out there. There’s me thinking I’m the only one. In fact there’s a whole industry devoted to helping people become parted with their money. Most of them are no more than glorified travel agents, in fact some of them ARE travel agents.

Obviously the first principle of volunteering is to ensure that the local people get the maximum benefit from one’s efforts. That ain’t always the case – in fact, hardly ever when arranging through an agent. Sometimes only a small proportion of what is paid goes into the local community.

It doesn’t take much research to find the actual NGO (Non-Governmental Organization) who operate the projects and go to them direct. This is how I’ve gone about things.

I’ve selected two NGO’s. The Trailblazer Foundation and The Sangkheum Center. Both of these are based in Siem Reap, Cambodia. I’ve been in contact with both and hope to share my time between the two.

Trailblazer are a USA-based NGO. They’re geo-technical engineers. They get involved with well-drilling in villages and bio-filter water filters. This is to provide drinking water for the many small rural villages in Cambodia.
It’s the water-filter project that I plan to be involved in. Hopefully I’ll be able to draw on my years of experience working with sand and gravels for the Tarmac Group as a Technical and Quality Manager back in the UK.
I’ll put a link to their website so that anyone who wants more info can read about it there.
That'll save me having to recreate it here.

The Sangkheum Center is proposing to establish a ‘Young Adult Preparation Program’

The Preparation Program offers participants English, Computer Science and Personal Development tuition as well as careers advice, job-hunting skills and workplace visits.

These ‘young adults’ are the business people of tomorrow – and who will help drive Cambodia forward. As I understand it – tourism is set to become a major industry for Cambodia. They have seen their neighbours – Thailand and more recently Vietnam benefit from tourism.

Again – I’ve posted a link to their website.

These plans may change a little by the time I get to Cambodia in December. The NGO’s generally have a preference for volunteers to be ‘in country’ before making firm arrangements. I can understand that – many things can happen in a few months of travelling.

Previous Comments:

Steve Gershon:

July 21, 2008

Warren - a lovely surprise to get this communique from you - hope all goes to plan. Glad to see you're keeping up the Sax play.
Best, Steve Gershon (swim coach, Ware, Herts)

Amanda McDonald:

July 22, 2008

Hi Warren
Great blog so far. Looking forward to reading about your adventures for the next 9 months or so. Amanda

Kay Tott:

July 22, 2008

Hi Warren

the blog is looking good and I await the next episode with bated breath as I am sure there will be a lot of partying done in the next month before yoy step on the plane on your adventure. The two projects sound very interesting and rewarding and will definately make a difference . good on ya.

Kay

6) Spanish authorities attempt to ground Woz Tours...

A major diplomatic incident was narrowly averted recently when Spanish Police detained Woz Tours’ CEO Wozzer Garber, on suspicion of working as an unlicensed tour operator at Malaga Airport in Spain.

According to sources, Wozzer had created a ‘welcome’ sign with which to greet a couple of guests from Australia, who were arriving into Spain’s Malaga Airport. They were intending to ‘couchsurf’ with Woz for five days at his apartment in nearby Fuengirola.

Trouble flared in the arrivals hall when a local taxi driver told Woz to leave the arrivals hall. Well at least that’s how Woz understood it – although he admits his conversational Spanish is not that good. Woz, with his usual tact and charm told him to ‘piss off’ - and he did – much to Woz’s satisfaction.

Regrettably for Woz – the ‘cab driver’ was in fact a senior officer for AENA (Aeropuertos Españoles y Navegación Aérea) - the Spanish Airports Authority.

This only became apparent to Woz when a few minutes later, the AENA chap returned into the arrivals hall accompanied by two serious-looking airport policemen. The police spent no time in hauling Woz away to the local police station where he was questioned at length in Spanish, regarding having no licence or identification tags to operate a tour company – namely one ‘Woz Tours’

At this point things were not looking good for Woz. He stated to the police that he was meeting friends, but under further questioning he could not give their home address in Australia, their surnames and in fact had to further admit that he’d never met them before! Being in possession of a sign with which to meet these ‘friends’ didn’t go in his favour either. Woz later stated that he’d certainly had better days.

So while the police were getting a cell ready for him, Woz exercised his right to a telephone call. He managed to contact his good friend Pilar – a bilingual lady in Malaga, who knew of the Aussies intended arrival and stay with Woz. She explained this to the policia and made some excellent excuses for Wozzer’s momentary lack of cooperation. In fact she’s reported to have advised the policia that he’s a ‘Plonker’. Woz believes this is a Spanish term for ‘nice guy really’

Of course while all this was going on – the travel-weary and bemused Wendy and Phil had collected their bags and entered the arrivals hall – with not a Woz in sight. So they did what all good Aussies do – said to each other ‘no worries mate, somethin’ll turn up – and snapped open a couple of cold tinnies. Well actually they didn’t – but would have if they’d known the Spanish for ‘tinny’.

Fortunately Wozzer was released without charge following Pilar’s intervention. Woz and the Aussies finally met outside the airport. It is reported that Wendy, Phil and Warren had a bloody good laugh about the event!

Later that day in an exclusive interview, Wozzer defended his position as to the status of Woz Tours. He stated that he’d organised travel plans for friends and family over a number of years. He accepted that they all left it to him, in part to keep him quiet and also in the knowledge that he’s the only one sad enough to prat around on a computer and do it.

Furthermore, he is undeterred and is confident that Woz Tours will encounter no further problems of this nature, during his forthcoming ‘world tour’ when he is certain to meet equally hospitable immigration and police officials in Latin America and Indochina.

As they say – watch this space…!

Previous posts:

bev richter:

July 23, 2008

Hi Warren

How are you? Enjoyed reading the above, I think this is the start of a whole new adventure for you, it sounds like fun !!!!

Take care

Love Bev

Warren:

August 27, 2008

Thanks Bev!

Tracey Cosway:

August 31, 2008

I have really enjoyed your blog so far and look forward to reading more of your stories over the coming months.

Was good to meet up last week.

Enjoy Rio

Trace

Steve Gershon:

August 31, 2008

I am enjoying following the adventures of Wozzer.
I shall be starting my own adventure very soon. The Lido closes Sun 7th Sept and i shall be off to do a solo Lands End to John O'Groats cycle ride. I won't take the shortest route and I won't be in a hurry to finish - it's the journey that counts here and I'm looking forward to it. It'll be great to see more of the UK and where better than from a bike. I have no plans for the route, timetable and obviously not sleeping arrangements given the absence of a route and timetable. I guess it'll be around 3 weeks and between 1,000 miles and 1,500 miles. I do plan to ride thru' Exmoor, the Peak District, the Lake District and stop at as many beautiful places as possible. Have fun Wozzer.
Steve

7) So, What's this Couchsurfing thing all about?

I said earlier I'd write an article about Couchsurfing (CS). I won't go into all the detail – there's lots of information on the CS website (follow the link on the right of this page).

I was already on with planning my trip long before I came across CS. Just doing the traditional traveller stuff for sleeping – hostels, B&B's trains etc. It was while checking out traveler websites that CS kept coming up.

So, I had a glance at the website – and to be honest I wasn't sure! I mean, why would a complete stranger give someone a bed, hospitality and maybe a tour around their locality? Are they mad? Are they deranged killers? On the make?

No – they're just good people! I'd started to forget that they still exist.

Look, out of over half a million people registered on the website, there's bound to be one or two nutters – take me, for instance. But on the whole there are enough safeguards to ensure that everyone is safe.

Well, I have to say this is going to revolutionize my trip. I'm not doing this exclusively – I'm staying in hostels along the way as well. But, I've already made arrangements to stay with CS hosts along the way. One or two nights mostly, a little longer in some places.

I already feel I have friends around the world – I'm in contact with most of my 'hosts' by email, msn and occasionally phone, be it in Argentina, Australia or Singapore for instance.I haven't stayed with anyone yet, but will do later this week when I arrive in Rio.

I've already hosted a few people at my (old) place in Spain – and had ever such a nice time with my guests. Of course the 'meeting the Aussies' story that I wrote was perhaps the ultimate in greeting a host! By the way – a few people asked me about that – I can assure everyone, it's written exactly as the event occurred.

Oh and it's not just about offering a 'couch' – a lot of people just offer to meet for a 'coffee or drink' when travelers are passing through their locality. I can't think of a better way to get the local 'flavour' of a place.

I'm doing the first half of my trip with a blend of CS'ing and hosteling. In most, no probably all the places I'm visiting before xmas – I'll have contact with a CS 'host', be it staying with them, or just meeting up in their locality for a few hours.

What a great way to see the world, eh?

8) All my bags are packed, I'm ready to go...

Well, all in all it's been a manic few weeks since my last blog. What with family and friends visits, going away parties and packing – both my bags and my apartment, I've hardly had time to sit and write anything. But yes, at last - all my bags are packed and I'm ready to go.

Anyway – I left Spain on Wednesday 26th. Although I nearly didn't.

I've never ever been so late for a flight – so much so that I was THE ONE. You know, there's always one holding up an on-time take off, everyone seated, pilot revving up the engines, passengers all looking pissed-off 'cos the captain just told them they've missed the take-off slot...

Then along comes Woz, leaving a trail of startled passengers and staff as he almost breaks into a run through the departures lounge, but building up quite a sway with his backpack perhaps not correctly secured. Talk about a bull in a china shop.

So, as I bounced along the jetway and onto the plane, I had a quick glance at the EasyJet stewardess and with my best charming smile attempted an apology. Of course they've heard it all before, but she relented when I explained that it was my first time with a backpack and it had slowed me down a bit. A quick look back at the devastation in the departures lounge told her all she wanted to know.

Send-off parties – well that was the third of six! Three in Spain and three in the UK. I have to say that the official send-off a week last Thursday in Los Boliches was an epic, even by our party standards. There were around thirty friends and family, my mate 'Chicago Jim' playing guitar and singing, and Dave – the owner of the bar keeping everyones glass full.

I couldn't have wished for a better evening. Went out at 8pm Thursday evening, got home lunchtime the following day. Yup, that was a good 'un alright! I've added a few photos on here.

So, back into the UK for three days. Went to a restaurant with my kids in Congleton. I just had one night with them. They all seem o/k with me being away for eight months. I've never been away for that long – I think they're dealing with it better than me. Still, they're all pretty smart and have a good mother taking care of them.

Final send-offs in Bristol and London were ever so nice – catching up with friends and family.

Well, enough rabbiting, better get ready for the off...

Previous post:

Neil: September 1, 2008

Hi Woz,

good to hear you have arrived in Rio, looking forward to the thong photo's (now that's not you in a thong mind!!). And remember a Brazilian is someone who comes from Brazil. Anyway it has been fun reading the blog so far. Take mate. Cheers

Neil

9) I'm leaving on a jet plane...

So, 4pm Friday 29th August, and it's me finally off. I departed from my mum's place in London. I had to decline her offer of making some sandwiches for the trip. 'Mum, I think they could go off at some point along the way'.

'Do you need anything else, son'? 'Have you packed a vest', do you need anything ironing?

Mum's, you've just gotta love 'em eh?

Sitting here on the plane writing my last new notes before departure is concentrating my my mind on events. It seems forever in the planning, sorting, packing. The next eight months are going to be extraordinary – sights / sounds / people / experiences....

I'm a very lucky guy to be able to do this.

Well, my Stewardess – the lovely Marsha, is telling me to turn off my laptop.
Ready to depart.

Captain Alastair Mair – Senior BA pilot lines up this huge 747-400 'Jumbo jet' on Heathrow's runway 23L and then with a massive surge of power and acceleration, the aircraft, his 17 crew-members, 312 passengers and of course Woz, are headed up to the skies for a 14 hours flight transatlantic flight – destination unknown.

Hmm, 'Leavin on a jet plane' and 'destination unknown' - they'd make great song titles. Wonder why no one's ever written a song?

Previous Comments:

annie:

September 2, 2008

Look at you chatting up the air hostess!

Your trip is just so exciting and I´m loving reading your blog - started today and had a lot of catching up to do!

Keep well and keep us informed!

Besitos,
Annie xxxxxxxxxx

Rach:

September 2, 2008

hey dad
have finally read your blog now you've actually left see, told you I would!
hope things are good in Brazil - can't wait to hear about it. mum said you rang - sorry to miss it. ooh, I bit the bullet and got myself an iphone!
speak soon, love rach xxx

Woz:

September 3, 2008

Hey Rach.

O/K - how much do I owe you for the iPhone? er - can you take Brasilian Reals? It's all I've got left

Catch up soon

Dad xxx

10) Rio de Janeiro - At last!

It's grey, cloudy and early as I step from the plane. Our little crowd on the rear rows of the flight have been chatting for a few hours – we're all travellers. The guy next to me works for an airline – he flys at very low cost – he's on a four day trip to Rio. The bloke across the isle from me, goes to Rio every few weeks. I don't ask him what he does for a living.

Immigration is a breeze – they don't say a word, just stamp in my passport and wave me through. Customs just as simple. Collect bag and head into arrivals. My Couchsurf hosts are there to greet me. Tim is holding up a sign with my name on – in very small letters, he's obviously read about my exploits at Malaga airport.

We do the introductions – we haven't spoken before now – just exchanged some emails about my staying with them. We'd agreed two or three days, maybe longer if we get on well.

Tim is a laid-back American – from Kentucky. An ex-US Marine who still looks like he can handle himself. Luciana, his delightful wife is Brasilian. She is a PhD in something quite high-level – and is from the south of the country. We talk easily on the ride from the airport to their apartment in Santa Theresa. I feel comfortable with them.

Santa Theresa is an old district in Rio. The guide books describe it as 'bohemian' – the artist and writers of Rio have congregated in the area. At first sight, to me it looks run-down, maybe it is. But it has a particular charm and I like it.
It has a century-old tram that runs through the district. I've added some photos taken around there, see what you think.

We settle into their apartment – it's started raining, not much chance of going out. We sit out on their small balcony and look out over tropical forest –and two 'Favella' These are slums that house many of Rio's people. 'It's quiet here' says Tim. Except for the gunfire' he adds grimly.

I'll write more about Favella later.

Luciana makes some Brasilian snacks of meats and cheese and opens some wine. “I'll have this then take a nap, I've been up for 30 hours”, says Woz.
Well, another ten hours, four bottles of wine and goodness knows how much beer later, Woz reckons this is a great cure for jetlag. Stay all week, they say.

Tim, Luciana and Rio – yeah, this'll be a good visit.

Previous Comments:

Steve Gershon:

September 7, 2008

sounds fun - I'm looking fwd to reading the bit after you discover they have a dark side !!!!

Keep up the journal - you seem to have a talent for it - maybe you can convert this into a best seller at the end of your trip - made a promissing start Wozzer.

Steve

PS. Was the last day this year for the Lido. Had 3 more satisfied clients today - felt very cold for me after all 3. Watertemp was 74 degrees Farenheit and it was a little windy too.

Within a week I plan to start my Lands End to John O'Groats Charity Bike Ride - yes I have been got at and it seems I am now responsible for raising huge sums for AMG (Action Medical Reseach). They are a good charity and I been associated with them for 4 or 5 years now.

Woz:

September 7, 2008

Cheers for that Steve. A dark side? Have you been there?

11) Out and about in Rio...

Rio is a big city, just over six million inhabitants and 450 square miles – just a bit smaller than London. Commonly known as just Rio, the city is also nicknamed A Cidade Maravilhosa, or "The Marvelous City". We'll see.

Luciana and Tim are busy with work – no time to spend with me during the daytime.

Luciana writes me some instructions how to take the bus or tram into the city – and where to find the Metro (subway). She gives me a map and sends me on my way.

First trip is to the Maracana Stadium – one of the most famous football grounds in the world. There's a match on – Flamengo vs Fluminense, a big local derby. I have arranged to meet some people from the Rio Couchsurf 'group'. They're going to take me in to the game. It's not safe to be in there as a stranger alone. Especially a gringo stranger.

I have to take a bus into the city and then the Metro. Hmmm, not to sure about that – I've heard so many things about Metro systems and attacks.

Well, a pleasant surprise! The metro is well lit, quite modern, spotlessly clean. It's a flat fare to ride – R$2.60 – around 70p. The bus is just as good – also a flat fare regardless of journey length. In fact all public transportation in Rio is a flat fare – generally between R$2.00 and R$3.00.

It's five blocks to the meeting place. I walk the Rio streets for the first time. I'm on the lookout for muggers – constantly glancing at everyone within 50 metres of me. I really should've been on the lookout for Rio car drivers – much more chance of getting killed by any one of 'em. They're like the lunatic drivers in – but on streoids, well probably coke at the least. It's the latin in them I guess.

Anyway – I find the bar where I'm meeting the others – I wait and wait, no one shows. No one in the bar speaks English – and frankly my Portuguese in zilch. 'Fala inglese'? (Speak English?) not a soul. I manage to speak to a couple of lads in Spanish – they used their own mobile phone to call my contact. 'Ten minutes, we'll be there', I'm told. Nada – they never showed, I didn't get to the game. A real bummer, I'd really been looking forward to that.

So – all dressed up and nowhere to go, so to speak – I head back to Santa Theresa feeling very disappointed indeed.

Oh, a word about Rio buses. There are thousands of 'em – in fact I think there's one for each Rio resident - usually being driven my maniac bus drivers. You want a great 'white knuckle' ride – forget Alton Towers – just hop on any Rio bus!

My next venture out is to Sugarloaf Mountain. Same stuff, Bus, Metro then another bus. It's pretty easy to get anywhere in Rio. Two cable cars take me to the summit. Fantastic views of Rio, Cocacabana Beach, Christ Statue and the harbour.

I got talking to a couple of young backpackers as we were buying tickets for the cable cars. Shula and Dan – what a delightful couple. It transpires that Rio is the last stop on their World Tour – they did it the opposite way around to me.

They'd already visited quite a few places that are on my itinerary – they had many places to tell me about. So we spent the rest of the day together on the mountain with a few drinks – Caprihana's of course – rounded off with a late lunch and more Caipirinha's at Ipanema Beach. Now I'm starting to feel like a real traveller! Oh, and a bit wobbly after maybe just a couple too many of those delicious lime and sugarcane bombshells.

Cocacobana and Ipanema. These two districts are the most well known and where most tourists stay. I had both on my list of places to stay too. I'm so glad I didn't. Yes they have beaches – and the high-rise hotels and apartments. Just like where I live on the Costa del Sol. Except there's a four-lane dual carriageway to be negotiated and the usual manic traffic. Ipanema is more upscale – the shops are glitzy and bar prices are higher. Much like Marbella really.

I'm becoming a little underwhelmed for some reason – I guess we all have an expectation of a place, and the 'worlds most famous beaches' are pretty so-so in my view.

I need to do more to find the 'real Rio'. Somehow.

Previous Comments:

tracey cosway:

September 7, 2008

this technology is fantastic, I feel as though I am there in Rio reading your description of the place and seeing your photos. Was Barry Manillow anywhere in sight at Copacabana beach!

Can't wait to hear what u get upto next. Shame about the football game

Tracey x

Lesley:

September 7, 2008

Hi woz you realy have cherred me up you should rite for a living Lots of Love Les x

Fi:

September 9, 2008

In all my years of travelling I've never found anywhere exactly like I expected it to be...sometimes not as good, sometimes better. Do not despair!

And I expected a lot more disasters but haven't finished reading your blog yet ... just testing to see if this thing works.

Woz:

September 9, 2008

Hey Fi, Welcome! Yeah you´re workin just fine now

12) Woz the Explorer..

  "Just go to Cardeal Arcoverde metro, walk a few blocks to the beach and we'll pick you up outside the Cococobana Palace Hotel. You can't miss it – it's the biggest hotel there", said the lady on the other end of the phone, when I was booking my Favella tour.

Can't miss it? Can't miss the hotel? I couldn't even find the bloody beach and the sea! Well, now Woz isn't usually known for being 'directionally challenged', but a funny thing happened when I left the metro station.

Well, for a start – the metro exit is on a large traffic junction – high buildings all around and roads going everywhere. Hey, I'm an adventurer now – and I know Cocacobana faces south. So, follow the sun – that's south. Meanwhile I'm puffing my way uphill and looking at a beautiful vista of mountains and the sun in my eyes – I'm wondering why the sea is up hill. Is it past the mountains? Jeez, she said a few blocks.

Now, while I've already learned that 'Cariocas' (Rio residents) are masters of the understatement – a few blocks can mean 'any distance, I've no idea' – and of course 'be there in 10 minutes' is never (as with the footy supporters) – I was having my suspicions about the direction I was headed in. Then it occurred to me – I'm in the southern hemisphere – the sun is to the north.

So, back down to the metro – now which way? Woz the intrepid explorer has it well sussed - easy, wait for the next train, and follow all those exiting wearing shorts and carrying cooler boxes. Sure enough – three blocks to the beach, the hotel and the Favella tour...

You know something? I reckon if Captain Scott had adopted my logic and followed the people wearing shorts - there's no way that Norwegian geezer would've beat him to the South Pole.

Previous Comments:

Sharon O´Brien:

September 8, 2008

Oh Warren, you are such a story teller! Reading all about your adventure is very entertaining and sooo funny! You really have a knack for putting it down in words. Can´t wait to hear more.

Tom & Sharon xx

tim:

September 25, 2008

folow people wearing shorts to get to the south pole........hmmm

13) Rio's other side - The Favelas

'Now, listen carefully' said Marta, our tour guide as we entered the Favela. passing the entrance guards. They were a motley gang of half a dozen youths with machine guns – don't take pictures of the people holding the guns. She had our attention.

Just seconds before we were marveling at some of the most expensive homes in Rio. Now, within less than half a kilometre were had entered another world.

'Don't take pictures of anyone specific, just 'general' photos'. 'If you ignore my advice, I may not be able to help you', she warned. This is going to be some afternoon alright – a trip deep inside a Favela is not a thing many people experience.

Martha really knows her stuff – She is a Rio tour guide and has extensive knowledge of the Favela and it's people.

It's a complete paradox – this is where the poor have the best views of any city in the world, yet live 'just up the street' in some cases, to the wealthiest inhabitants of Rio.

The Favelas are a feature of many cities in Brasil, but Rio in particular. Rio has around 1.5 million of it's people living in intolerable (to us) conditions. That's around 20% of Rio's population. Most people that do work, have the most menial and low-paid jobs in the city.

The other sector of the population engage in most of the criminal activity found in Rio. Drug dealing and distribution being the most common.

 There are three main gangs that 'control' all of Rio's Favelas. Sometimes a bloody and deadly 'turf war' is fought over the ownership of a Favela. The ganglord in charge controls all activities. There is no 'crime' in a Favela – it's an unwritten rule that no harm will come to any inhabitant. A different story outside of it though.

This is the most tragic yet frightening and illuminating experience I've had – ever. I really can't begin to do this subject justice – I was trying to write notes, along with ensuring not to make eye-contact with anyone on the street. I'll let my photo's tell the story.

I've put a link to the tour website on the left side of the page. Anyone visiting Rio should have this on their itinerary.

For further understanding of this way of life have a look here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Favela

My own 'jigsaw' of Rio is now becoming complete – piece by piece. All I have to do now is learn some Samba...

Previous comments:

Amanda McDonald:

September 8, 2008

Hi Woz very interesting read particularly the favela article at wikipedia. Thanks for the lesson I had never heard of them. No wonder you were careful who you were looking at.

Hope you get the recipes for those lime bombshells they sound like a good drink!

My first CS hosting this weekend was brilliant. Looking forward to the next one. Regards Amanda

Woz:

September 8, 2008

I'll send the recipe - not sure we'll get them in the Hunter Valley though.

Oz won't be the same after I introduce you all to Caipirinhas. Oh and Tapas - and Siesta time!!

Glad you have a good weekend.

Lena W:

September 14, 2008

Hi Warren

Finally got the chance to read your posts and viewed the slides ALL AT ONCE.

You've managed to capture the flavour. Watch the following for the pix you werent able/allowed to capture

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpSkF65efqE&feature=related

Have fun, safe travel!

Lena

14) Samba City – oh yeah?...

I mean, how hard is it to find some Samba in Rio.? Well, if you're traveling with Woz Tours – next to bloody impossible! Although in fairness to Woz, it didn't start out like that.

Wozzer had done his research about Samba before ever leaving Europe. Samba dance classes, Samba drum workshops, Samba drum lessons – a whole list of places to try and strut his stuff.

Of course, like many things in Rio – they do exist, but to an outsider traveling alone, they're shall we say 'off the beaten track' , like in the Favela. Usually Samba schools rehearse in the evening. You'll get my drift when I say that an evening stroll into the Favela isn't really the smartest of ideas.

I knew about Samba City – read it's comprehensive website, knew all the details, times and prices. All I had to do was get there. All the info is here: http://www.sambacity.info/cidade-do-samba.htm

Thursday is the main day – workshops during the day (drum and dance) and a show in the evening. What a great way to finish up my last day in Rio!

I phoned beforehand to check – I'm learning the ways of Rio now. 'Yes, we're open from 10 am' says the lady on the other end of the phone. Directions? I ask. 'Metro to Central, then take a bus – it's only two minutes ride from the station, she adds. “I'll walk from the station says I – can't be far?” NO – DON'T WALK, IT'S TOO DANGEROUS, she shouts down the phone. I mean, we're talking early afternoon here – not after dark.

So out from Central metro, I jump in a cab. “Cidade do Samba por favor” I ask in my best Portuguese. He looks at me and repeats it - he's wearing a strange expression. Si – Samba City, say I. He's locks all the doors of the cab and off we go.

Well, if I had walked it, I probably wouldn't be writing this now. Out of some iffy areas I'd seen in Rio, Gloria district takes the biscuit for me.

A couple of minutes later we're outside Samba City. I pay the cabby 12R$, about four quid for the short trip – I've been done, but what the hell, at least I'm here. He speeds off rapidly.

The girl at the ticket counter is bemused when I ask for a ticket and details of the drum workshop. Why have you come here? She asks giving me the same strange look I received from the cab driver. There's no workshop until carnival next February, she adds helpfully.

I'm stunned - “nothing? Nada?” I repeat.

Another shake of the head from Miss Samba City – “maybe you can look inside if you like”? It'll be 20R$ please.

“What do I get to see”

“Nothing, nada”

I can honestly say at that moment I felt like a real-life Chevvy Chase in the movie 'Vacation' – you remember? The one where he gets to 'Wallyworld' and it's closed?

Tim looks a bit surprised when I get 'home' around an hour after I'd left there. A bit quick, Woz? He drawls – don't ask, I say through gritted teeth.

He and Luciana take pity on me – We go to Lapa that night. Lapa district is, shall we say 'up and coming, in an ethnic sort of way' Well – more coming than up, in my opinion. Luciana did great though – she found me a Samba Show. I didn't get to drum, dance or even mime! But I did finally get close to the action.

I also got quite wobbly on those dammed Caipirinhas again. In at 2.30am – up at 5.30am to catch the coach for the six hour journey to Sao Paulo - courtesy of one of Brasil's famed bus drivers.

Jeez, will I never learn?.....

Previous Comments:

Mike Perry: September 8, 2008

Hi Woz

Great journal! Keep it up and looking forward to the next ones.

Regards

Mike

Elaine:September 8, 2008

Hey wozza so enjoying your journal its my only giggle now your not here to annoy. Keep them coming hun. So much fun

Kay Tott: September 8, 2008

I'm loving the blog, you get a real sense of the place. You be careful of any dusky maidens in bars bearing drinks, a collague of mine took what was on offer woke up in hospital minus his wordly goods, or those that he had on him in any case.
Looking forward to the next instalment.
Love Kay x

Steve Gershon:September 8, 2008

yep, I'm hooked too - get to thinking how you can make a book out of it )
I suspect you can just publish it exactly as it is.
Can you get backups of the blog ?
Steve

Tim:September 8, 2008

Hi Woz,

I'm glad that you had an intersting time in Rio (remember it's Hee-OOOO)

Cheers!

Lesley:September 8, 2008

realy enjoying the trip lov les x

Pilar:September 8, 2008

Well Warren!

What can I say about the incident at Malaga Airport in comparison to Rio? Ha Ha!!

Enjoy Sao Paulo, you never know the grass might even be greener.



Luvs P x

Kay Tott:September 10, 2008

I agree with Steve this is definately book material, you could make your fortune and do other trips a la Michael Pallin. Rio sounds an experience lets hope San Paulo is an improveement, you will be getting more used to everything too not such a greenie.
Keep safe
Love Kay
x

roly bongo: September 16, 2008

could have given you lessons before you went

15) Rio. City of Contrasts...

 

So – sitting on the coach riding down to Sao Paulo I have time to reflect and jot down my thoughts about Rio.
Contrasts, Contradictions, Paradoxes – any of these could describe Rio de Janeiro.

Mountain and beach in close proximity.
Extravagant wealth and desperate poverty in close proximity.
The poor live in the 'suburbs' – the wealthy live downtown.
The poor live high above the city and enjoy the best views.

In many places all that separates the fabulous houses of the rich and the tumbledown shacks of the poor in the Flavella, is the width of a street.

I came to Rio with great expectations. I guess it is on the list of everyones 'dream destinations'. In some respects it didn't impress me. Maybe it is a great 'party town' – you'd have to be careful where they are though. I think this side is perhaps a little oversold.

The 'Cariaocas' are warm friendly people – except those wanting to rob or shoot you. I met some good people – language was a barrier. A constant awareness is required – even in daylight. Many places are no-go areas, at any time.

This is also contrasted with the magnificent views from say, Sugrloaf Mountain – or the charm of riding the tram from downtown up to the cobbled streets of Santa Theresa. Or stand-up eating at any one of thousands of foodstands with the locals.

To experience the Flavella and it's people is still hard to put into words – hopefully the pictures help convey some of the desperation of the people there.

So the difference in culture, it's people and the sights are stunning. I bet it's even better during carnival time. Six days was enough time there for me.

I resisted booking organised tours because I wanted to try and get my own feel for the place. If I did it again – I'd take a tour to the Maracana Stadium and probably a 'nightlife tour'. These are difficult to do alone or even say a couple, if both are strangers.

Maybe some of this negativity is me. It's my first destination – I'm traveling alone – and had to figure a lot out 'on the ground' so to speak. Also my first time in a South American city. Things ARE different here – a much different culture to us Europeans.

So all in all, a very enlightening first week.

I've heard Sao Paulo is even more dangerous. Oh goody...

Previous comments:

steve Cadd:

September 16, 2008

Sounds a little like our nights out in Los Boliches Amigo.....

Hey were all thinking of ya ... glad ya didnt take ya sax now eh?