43) Leaving South America - with a hug or two...

It's fairly late by the time I arrive into Santiago and clear immigration and the most cursory of customs inspections – 11pm. The airport is a good way out of the city. I was advised to take the 'TransVIP' airport shuttle. Good advice – 5000 Chilean Pesos, around US$7 – they run me to the door of what must rate as Latin America's shabbiest hostel – Hostal de Sammy.

Now I'm not comparing hostels with hotels, but if ever there was a place that needs a good renovation, it's here. From the crumbling and peeling decoration, to the dreadful bathrooms, to the awful rooms – this place takes some beating. At US$18 / night, it's not even cheap by Chilean standards – I should've rented the TransVIP minibus for the night and stayed in that.

Still, like most hostels – the backpacking guests are good company. I meet up with a young British girl, Nia and a German lad – Marcus. Nia is 18, a Londoner and has been travelling South America solo for two months. Now, one or two people think I'm brave for wandering around South America alone – but here's a girl – around 5 feet tall and weighing maybe 7 stones max who's done it all – Volunteering, hiking, long, long bus rides. She's the brave one.

Marcus is good fun, for a German. I've met a few along the way, but not for long. That's no accident! But he's got a really good sense of humour and can give as good as he gets – so he's a top guy in my book. Early 20's, he's been in Chile for some months now, working on some sort of Agri-bio project, I think that means genetically modified foods, so I decline the half a banana he offers me. I'm tempted to give him a list of things about me that I could do with having modified.

Only have one full day in Santiago, my flight to New Zealand leaves late at night. I find out that Nia is on the same flight as me. The three of us decide to head downtown. Santiago is quite a smart city. It has modern commercial buildings and a fine Spanish-influenced central area. Smog is an issue – there's a haze all over the city – it obscures the view of the Andes that rise to the north.

It's a fine sunny lunchtime though and Woz shows Nia and Marcus how to sightsee. Just find a decent cafe bar with outside tables, order a beer and watch the world go by. Get the right table, and you can even get some good photo's without having to move!

There's something like university 'rag' week going on in the town – and the students passing by us are made-up to look like something from a horror movie. I cast my way across the square and see some other students holding signs 'Abrazos gratis' – free hugs. Well, it's been a while since I've had one – and as they're free, well it's sort of rude not to really.

Of course – receiving a couple of hugs was pretty good. But, Woz reckons he should try his luck at giving them. So, sweet talking some signs from the students – Woz, Nia and Marcus head off around the street.

What a great hour or so! It's amazing how many people wanted to have a hug from me. Well, on reflection – not amazing, quite understandable really. Well it was until I pushed my luck with a very attractive policewoman. As we all know by now, Woz and Spanish-speaking police don't mix. It took Marcus (who's Spanish is excellent) to explain to her that I wasn't trying to attack her – just in time too. She was just reaching for the handcuffs. Pity he stopped her really, but that's another story...

Well, time to start thinking about leaving the country! Just as well I'm on a flight in a few hours.

Nia and I are on the shuttle bus out to the airport.

“Well, it looks like we got out of South America with everything we came in with” I say

“We're not at the airport yet” she answers pessimistically

“Does check-in qualify”?

“Only when we're taking off, will I believe it” she says.

Well we did take off with everything we came in with almost two months earlier. I was leaving with a lot more though.

I was leaving with the thoughts, sights, sounds and experiences that I could not imagine two months earlier. Peru has been enlightening – Titicaca, Cusco and seeing the extraordinary Macchu Piccu have been a life-long objective of mine. Words cannot do it justice, it has to be seen and experienced to believe it.

I've still got mixed feelings about Rio – great to go there, not sure I'd need go go back. I could probably say the same for Paraguay and Bolivia. I have to say that Bolivia opened my eyes to another world though. Amazing scenery, abject poverty and a constant feeling of unease whenever I was on the streets of any of the towns and cities I visited.

I wouldn't dissuade anyone from going there – I really needs to be seen to even start to understand it.

At the other end of my 'experience scale' is Argentina. I just have the warmest feelings for the country and it's people. Buenos Aires was wonderful. It just has such an air about it – the 'tiredness' of the city in general imparts a particular charm. The streets of San Telmo and La Boca have a stunning vibrancy, be it architecture, music or colour. I can say the same for Cafayate and Salta. Many other places too. I want to go back.

But right now, I'm going forward. Settled in my seat on the LAN Chile Airbus A340 awaiting departure for a 14 hours trans-Pacific flight to New Zealand.

It's 11pm Saturday 18^th October as we head off into the night skies. I'm scheduled to arrive into Auckland 5am Monday 20^th . Because of crossing the international dateline – I don't see Sunday 19^th. It doesn't happen for me at all. It's bizarre really, I lose a day out of my life – well, I suppose I've already lost one or two over the years, mainly due to Gin or Vodka, but this is different. It doesn't exist – and at my time of life I can ill-afford to lose a day!

I console myself with the thought that I may have lost a day – but I've already gained what seems a lifetime of experiences.

And I'm only a quarter-way around the world. So farewell Latin America and hello to New Zealand...

Comments

[Steve]

you've said goodbye to South America but your prose has done it proud - well done Wozzer
Steve